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Chapter 20 cosmo
Chapter 20 Milady cosmetology
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| The scalp and skin are protected from possible burns when using a base hair relaxer by applying _________ | Base cream |
| Hydroxide relaxer are usually sold in ________ and ________ formulas | base & no base |
| _________ relaxers are intended for use on color-treated, damaged, or fine hair | Low pH |
| The action of a guanidine hydroxide, or no lye, relaxer causes the hair to ______ and ______ | Soften and swell |
| Relaxers that are ionic compounds formed by metal combine with oxygen and hydrogen are known as________ | Metal hydroxide relaxers |
| _________ is the process in which the hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair, relaxers remove sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond | Lanthionization |
| Before giving a relaxing treatment to curly hair the cosmetologist must perform an analysis of the client's hair and scalp, testing for ________ and ________ on several areas of the head | Porosity & elasticity |
| The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a fluid flows is also know as : ________ | Viscosity |
| What are the three most common types of chemical hair relaxers? | Ammonium thio, Guanidine hydroxide and Sodium hydroxide |
| What process permanently rearranges the basic structure of curly hair into a straight or smoother form? | Chemical hair relaxer |
| When processing is complete for a soft curl permanent, what is done after rinsing the hair thoroughly with warm water? | Conditioner is applied |
| After saturating the rods with neutralizer in a soft curl permanent and processing according to manufacturer's directions, the next step is to _________. | rinse with the rods still in the hair |
| When using the comb method of application, how is the relaxing cream applied? | With back of comb |
| A ____________ is a thio-based chemical service that re-formats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves. | Soft curl permanent |
| Keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in a _____ manner: they do not break bonds | Semi-permanent |
| When hair has sufficiently straightened, the hair is rinsed rapidly and thoroughly with _________ water | Warm |
| After the hair has been processed with a relaxer and before the shampoo, the hair should be thoroughly _________ | Rinsed |
| One safety precaution for hair relaxing is to avoid ______ the scalp with the comb or fingernails. | Scratching |
| What is one safety precaution that must be followed with all chemical hair relaxing services? | Wearing protective gloves |
| Of the general types of hair relaxers, which one does not require pre-shampooing? | Sodium hydroxide |
| A hair relaxing treatment should be avoided when an examination shows the presence of _________. | Scalp abrasions |
| The best type of shampoo to use after the chemical relaxer is a ____________ | Neutralizing shampoo |
| What product is used to restore the hair to a normal acidic pH? | Normalizing lotion |
| The product is applied first to the ________ when performing a sodium hydroxide retouch. | New growth only |
| When applying hydroxide relaxer on virgin hair, the processing cream is applied last to the _____and __________ | Scalp area, Hair ends |
| To check relaxer processing, smooth and press a strand to the scalp using the back of the comb or your finger. If they curl returns, ____________ | Continue processing |
| Inspecting the action of the relaxer by smoothing and pressing the strand to the scalp is called _________ | Periodic strand test |
| General guidelines suggest that for coarse, extremely curly, and resistant hair, a ________ strength relaxer should be used | Strong or super |
| If using a "no base" relaxer, a protective cream may be applied __________ | To the hairline and around the ears |
| General guidelines for fine, color-treated, or damaged hair a _________ strength relaxer should be used. | Mild |
| Application of the relaxer for a retouch begins in the most resistant areas, usually at the back of the head or _________ | Under the occipital bone |
| What is pH stand for ? | Potential hydrogen |
| In permanent weaving what determinates the size of the curl? | The size of the rod |
| __________ is the process of chemically altering the natural wave pattern of the hair | Chemical Texture services |
| In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is | Highly Alkaline |
| __________ relaxers are often marketed and sold as no mix-no lye relaxers are | Potassium hydroxide relaxers |
| Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional | Stress and tension on hair |
| Rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area are | Straight rods |
| what are disulfide bonds? | Strong, chemicals side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together |
| what is a basic permanent wrap? | AKA straight set wrap Perm wrapping technique in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized base. All the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width of the rod |
| What are straight rods? | Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area |
| What are concave rods? | Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends |
| what is a loop rod? | Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod |
| What is a double flat wrap ? | Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped |
| What is a spiral perm wrap? | The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod , which causes the hair to spiral along the lenght of the rod , like candy cane stripes |
| What is base cream? | An oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing |
| What is base cream also known as? | Protective base cream |
| What is bookend wrap? | Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope |
| What is a double- rod wrap? | AKA piggyback wrap; a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the opposite direction. |
| What is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions? | Thioglycolic acid |
| What are base relaxers? | Relaxers that require the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer |
| What are no-base relaxers? | Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream |
| What is end papers? | Also known as end wraps; absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. |
| What are endothermic waves? | Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood type hair dryer |
| What is on- base placement? | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base |
| What is base placement? | Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| What are relaxers that DO NOT require the application of a protective base cream ? | No-base relaxers |
| What is a loop rod also known as? | Circle rod |
| What are the symbols for: Sodium, Potassium, Lithium, Oxygen and Hydrogen | Sodium= Na Potassium= K Lithium=Li Oxygen=O Hydrogen=H |
| What are perms rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area? | Straight rods |
| What are long, coiled polypeptide chains | Keratin proteins |
| What is the basic permanent wrap also known as? | Straight set wrap |
| What is a perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood type hair drier | Endothermic waves |
| What is the name of an oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing ? | Base cream |
| What is the least amount of time you should spend rinsing out a perm? | 5 minutes |
| What is the difference between alkaline permanent waving solutions and acid balanced permanent waves? | Alkaline permanent waving solutions soften and swell the hair, and open the cuticle permitting the solution to penetrate the cortex. pH of 9.4 Acid- balanced permanent waves there is less swelling of the cuticle. pH of 7.5 |
| TRUE OR FALSE Curly hair has a fairly uniform diameter along a single strand | False, curly hair does not form fairly uniform diameter along a single strand; curly hair has varying dimension all along the hair strand |
| Should an elasticity test ALWAYS be performed before a chemical texture? | Yes |
| What is Ammonium Thioglycolate ? | Also known as ATG; is an active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent. |
| What is base direction? | Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. |
| What are side bonds? | Hydrogen, salt and disulfide bonds that cross link polypeptide chains together |
| What is the spiral shape created when polypeptide chains intertwine with each other? | Helix |
| What is reduction reaction? | The addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen |
| What are peptide bonds also known as ? | End bonds |
| Which perm is wrapped along the length of the rod like a candy cane stripes? | Spiral perm wrap |
| What are end papers also known as ? | End wraps |
| What are alkaline waves also known as? | Cold waves |
| What do you do to test for metallic salts | 1oz of 20-vol peroxide 20 drops of 28% ammonia Immerse 20 strands for 30 minutes Assess lightning |
| What is the name of perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporates as rapidly as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use ? | Ammonia free waves |
| What relaxer is marked as lye relaxer and may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair? is very effective for extremely curly hair | Sodium hydroxide pH 12.5- 13.5 |
| What is the pH of alkaline/ cold waves? | 9.0-9.6 |
| What has a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and requires heat to process? | True acid waves |
| What are keratin proteins? | Long, coiled polypeptide chains |
| What term refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base? angle of which the hair is wrapped | Base placement |
| What are chemical texture services? | Hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair |
| What is the pH of low-pH waves? | 6.5-7.0 |
| T or F Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that are also result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges | TRUE |
| Name what each bond is broken down by: salt, hydrogen and disulfide | Salt: pH Hydrogen: Water and styling tools (flat iron, blow dryer, etc) Disulfide: Chemical change |
| What is hydroxide neutralization? | Acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bond |
| What is a a wrap technique whereby extra-long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in opposite direction? | Double rod wrap or piggyback |
| What is base control? | Is the position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| A __________ bond is a strong chemical side bond formed when the sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together | Disulfide |
| Define viscosity? | The measurement of the thickness or thinnest of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows |
| What are thio-free waves | Perms that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine. |
| What are compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur? | Amino acids |
| What is curl reforming used for? | Loosening overly curly hair: changing tightly curly or coiled hair into loose curls or waves |
| What uses the same ammoniun thyoglicolate that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH above 10 | Thio relaxers |
| Which relaxer is a no-mix, no lye relaxer that may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair but is very effective for extremely curly hair ? | Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide pH 12.5-13.5 |
| What type of permanent wave is recommended for porous to normal hair ? | Ammonia-free waves Thio-free waves Process at room temperature and has a pH of 7.0 - 9.6 |
| What type of permanent waves are recommended for coarse, thick, or resistant hair? | 1) Alkaline/ cold waves pH 9.0-9.6 2) exothermic waves |
| What is a very strong alkali with a pH over 13 and its active ingredient is the hydroxide ion? | Hydroxide relaxers |
| What is the pH of true acid waves? | 4.5-7.0 |
| What are amino acids? | Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur. |
| What perm wrap consists of base sections that are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of hair? | Bricklay permanent wrap |
| What is the pH of ammonia free waves? | 7.0-9.6 |
| What is permanent waving? | A two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then the hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer. |
| What does hair relaxing do? | Removes the curl or waves leaving the hair straight and smooth |
| What are ionic compounds formed by a metal(sodium, potassium, or lithium) which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen? | Metal hydroxide relaxers |
| What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions? | Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) |
| What are alkaline waves? | Also known as cold waves; have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat. |
| What are perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate? | Low pH waves |
| What are exothermic waves? | Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. |
| What is a process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form? | Chemical hair relaxing |
| What is a weak physical side bond that is also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges and is easily broken by water? | Hydrogen bonds |
| T or F Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds | TRUE |
| What is off- base placement? | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so the rod is positioned completely off its base. |
| What are soft bender rods? | Tool about 12-inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. |
| What relaxers require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. | Base relaxers |
| T or F The cuticle is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of the hair | FALSE, the cortex is responsible for the 80% of the incredible strength and elasticity of the hair |
| How long does a keratin straightening treatment last for | 3 to 5 months |
| T or F Chemical texturizers raise the pH of the hair shaft | TRUE |
| The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its ___________ ________ | Reducing agent |
| T or F Salt bonds are easily broken but reform when pH returns to normal level | True |
| What is thio neutralization? | Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form. |
| What is a NaOH relaxer? | Sodium hydroxide/ lye relaxers |
| What is a thio relaxer and no lye relaxer that is compatible with soft curl permanents but has a strong, unpleasant ammonia smell and with repeated used may dehydrate the hair | Ammonium Thioglycolate pH 9.6-10 |
| What is the weave technique ? | Wrapping techinque that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. |
| ___________ are conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hair's natural pH before the final neutralizing shampoo | Normalizing lotion |
| Define chemical texture services | Services that cause a chemical change that alterates the natural wave pattern of the hair |
| What are 2 other names for Japanese Thermal Straightners? | 1) Thermal reconditioning 2) Thermal Ionic reconstructors |
| What is the most common ingredient for neutralizer is ____ to ____ volume hydrogen peroxide | 5 to 10 |
| What are peptide bonds? | Also known as end bonds; chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form polypeptide chains. |
| What are acid balanced waves? | Permanent waves that have a 7.8 -8.2 netural pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves. |
| What is a croquinole perm wrap? | Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. |
| What type of permanent wave is recommended for normal, fine or damaged hair ? | Low pH waves. endothermic pH 6.5- 7.0 |
| What type of permanent wave is recommended for porous or damaged hair? | Acid balanced waves. Room temperature. pH 7.8-8.2 |
| What are base sections? | Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section |
| What is a curvature permanent wrap? | Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head |
| What is half-off base placement ? | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degree or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section |
| What is thioglycolic acid? | The most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions |
| Which permanent waves have a neutral pH 7.8-8.2. | Acid balanced waves |
| What is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent? | Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) |
| What is the pH of exothermic waves | 9.0-9.6 |
| T or F A properly processed perm should only break approximately 50% off the disulfide bonds | TRUE |
| T or F Thio relaxers have a higher viscosity than perm solution | TRUE |
| What is the grabbing technique that uses zig zag partings to divide base areas | Weave technique |
| What is a double rod wrap also known as? | Piggyback wrap |
| What are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form polypeptide chains? | Peptide bonds |
| What are true acid waves? | Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves, and they do not usually do as firm curl as alkaline waves |
| How many components must be mixed in guanidine hydroxide relaxer? | Require 2 components that must be mixed |
| Which waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat? | Alkaline waves |
| What is a single flat wrap? | Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped |
| What is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped? | Double flat wrap |
| What is a perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped? | Single flat wrap |
| What is the term for the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped? | Base direction |
| AKA circle rods Is a tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod? | Loop rod |
| What are polypeptide chains? | Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds |
| What creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing? | Exothermic waves |
| How many chemical processes is a soft-curl perm? | 2 |
| T or F Hydroxide relaxers are not compatible with thio relaxers, permanent waving, or soft curl perms | TRUE |
| What is the pH of thio free waves? | 7.0-9.6 |
| What is the name of absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods? | End papers |
| What is a perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope? | Bookend wrap |
| What do you call to the perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter to the ends. | Concave rods |
| What are long chains of amino acids joint together by peptide bonds? | Polypeptide chains |
| What are long coiled polypeptide chains? | Keratin proteins |
| What is a low-pH relaxer and no-lye relaxer that is less damaging to hair but does not sufficiently relax extremely curly hair ? | Ammonium sulfite/ Ammonium bisulfite pH 6.5-8.5 |
| What is a no-lye relaxer that causes less skin irritation than other hydroxide relaxers but with repeated use may dehydrate the hair. | Guanidine hydroxide pH 13-13.5 |
| What is a perm in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers? | Croquinole perm wrap |
| What is a two - step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical caused by the application of permanent, waving solution and neutralizer? | Permanent waving |
| Keratin straightening treatments contain silicon, polymers and _________, which release formaldehyde gas when heated to high temperatures | Formalin |
| What is a thio based chemical services that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves | Soft curl permanent |
| What does permanent waving do? | Adds wave or curl to the hair |
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