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3.01 Apparel Vocab
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Standard Sizes | The set of body measurements used by most pattern companies to give consumers confidence in using the same pattern size between most major sewing pattern companies like Butterick, Simplicity, McCall's, and Vogue. |
| Body Measurements | The actual dimensions of the consumer's body to help them determine their pattern size. |
| Unisex Patterns | Patterns designed for either male or female pattern consumers. These are normally classic styles for both male and female. Helps the consumer save money by being able to purchase one pattern for several projects. |
| Multi sized Patterns | Patterns having several sizes printed on the same pattern piece to help a person adjust for a better fit. Multisized Patterns also offer broad use for different people with different sizes. |
| Wearing Ease | Extra room allowed in patterns for wearing comfort. A plan for clothes to be comfortable allowing a wearer to sit, walk and bend. Clothes would be too tight with unflattering wrinkles and pulls. |
| Design Ease | An extra amount of fulness provided in patterns to give the garment its special look or silhouette. Design ease can vary from a little extra to a lot depending on the current fashion and trends. |
| Pattern Catalog | A catalog of all the current sewing patterns available by the pattern manufacturer. |
| Pattern Companies | The companies whose business is to create, make and sell sewing patterns, including Butterick, McCall's, Vogue Sewing, Simplicity, New Look, etc. |
| Pattern Photo | Most pattern envelopes show a model(s) wearing the garment options/styles so the consumer can get a feel for how patterns, once sewn, will look on the body and help guide the consumer in their decision making to purchase and use the pattern for their sewi |
| Pattern Number | A number given by pattern manufacturers to identify the pattern design. |
| Size Availability | Each sewing pattern has on the back of the envelope a size chart. Compare your measurements to the size chart on the pattern information and see which size is closest to you. It’s very possible that your measurements fall across a number of pattern sizes. |
| Suggested Fabrics | On the pattern envelope there will be suggested fabrics you can use to make the garment. It gives the consumer reassurance that if they make the garment in the suggested fabric(s), it will have the correct drape, fit and overall look of the picture on the |
| Drape | How fabric looks when it hangs. For clothes making it is important how a fabric hangs on the body as this affects how the garment will look and the intended style. Drape does relate quite strongly to fabric weight but it is not always the case that heavie |
| Nap | Fabrics with a pile where the threads lie in a specific direction, think velvet or corduroy. What is absolutely key here is if you are using a fabric with nap, all pattern pieces must be placed in the same direction with the nap running downwards from nec |
| One Way Designs | A pattern, on fabric, where all the motifs or designs are all orientated in the same way, meaning that they all face or go in the same direction. These patterns usually consist of the same motif repeated. The dressmaker would want to make sure when cuttin |
| Notions | This is a listing of items that are needed to sew and complete the construction of garment and will include things like zips, buttons, thread, elastic, hooks, etc. |
| Yardage Chart | The area on the sewing pattern where you determine how much fabric you will need based on the width of the fabrics you are planning on using. 45” or 60” wide fabric is the norm. |
| Grain Line | This is the suggested direction in which to place the pattern piece on the fabric with the pattern piece's arrow parallel to the selvedge. |
| Notch | Triangle shapes that appear along the cutting line for matching seams and aligning/joining the pattern pieces. |
| Cutting Line | The very edge of the pattern piece, where the fabric is cut. This outermost line is beyond the seam-line (or sewing line) and the seam allowance. |
| Place on Fold | This indicates a paper pattern piece needs to be placed on the fold of the fabric so that two identical halves are cut as one avoiding having a seamless center seam that does not need to be joined with stitches or a seam. |
| Seam Allowance | The area between the fabric edge and the stitching. 5/8" is the standard seam allowance used for commercial sewing patterns. |
| Dart (Stitch and Fold) | A tapered fold in a pattern to allow for fullness, which help shape the garment to body contours. The dart needs to be marked and folded along the center line, matching the dots and stitch to the point. The dart can be single-ended or double-ended. |
| Adjustment Line | A line that indicates where a pattern can be lengthened or shortened usually across the pattern at waist or hip level. |
| Cutting Layout | A map showing how to fold the fabric and position the pieces for the most economical use. This will vary from garment view, fabric width, pattern size and nap so be sure to follow the correct layout. |
| Preshrink | Also know as prewashing, the process of preparing fabric ahead of time for sewing to ensure it will continue to fit after washing or washing will not distort the garment and its fit. |
| Crosswise Fold | Fabric is usually folded so the cut ends match. However, a crosswise fold can also be a partial fold. A crosswise fold is often used when pattern pieces are too wide to fit on fabric folded lengthwise. |
| Lengthwise Fold | Most fabric is folded length- wise on the bolt. Pattern instructions generally show a lengthwise fold with fabric folded in half lengthwise so that selvages match. |
| Double Fold | Folding the bottom edge of your fabric towards the wrong side of the fabric twice. This will hide the raw edge of the fabric and give a smooth finish on the inside. The instructions for your project will tell you by how much you need to fold and press (wi |
| Bias Grain | Runs in two directions at a 45° angle to the selvedge, and therefore also to the straight and cross grains. |
| Fabric Widths | Fabric cut from one selvage edge to the other. |
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