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3.03 Apparel Vocab
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Stitch length | the length of each stitch sewn by a sewing machine. Changing the stitch length adjusts the feed dogs, which controls how much fabric is pulled through with each stitch |
| Backstitching | stitch backward to the edge of the fabric to secure the ends of a row of stitching. Continue sewing the seam to the other end and backstitch ½ inch from the end |
| Standard stitching | the basic straight stitch used by every sewing machine for normal seams and joining two pieces of fabric together. This basic straight stitch length may change to suit different weights and types of fabric but is commonly 10 to 12 stitches per inch |
| Understitching | a line of stitches that are sewn close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside, handy when sewing around a neckline |
| Basting | a technique of temporarily holding layers of fabrics together, by using longer stitches – 6-8 stitches per inch, until the fabric layers are permanently stitched. Basting is sometimes also called tacking |
| Standard seam stitching | 5/8 inch plain seam line sewn to join two pieces of fabric together |
| Reinforcement stitching | a short stitch – 15- 20 stitches per inch, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other, used to add strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as an armhole, crotch and corners |
| Topstitching | make a row of continuous stitches on the top or right side of a garment or other article as a decorative feature |
| Stay-stitching | line of stitching sewn around an edge (such as an armhole) of a garment being made in order to prevent the cloth from stretching |
| Edge stitching | row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, normally ⅛” or less from the edge. It provides a crisp edge for facings, collars, pockets or any situation where you want a tight, professional finish along a seamed edge |
| Zigzag stitching | geometric side to side stitch used for seam finishing, button hole creation, decorative sewing and sewing stretch fabric |
| Stitch-in-the-ditch | technique involving sewing down the channel of an existing seam (the "ditch") to secure pieces of a garment in place without stitches being seen outside. Stitches are hidden and invisible to the outside |
| Specialty stitches | most machines have a variety of these specialty stitches that add a decorative aspect to sewn garments or items |
| Seam | Row or line of stitching resulting in holding two layers of fabric together |
| Plain seam | simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item. A plain seam is defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of fabric together with the wrong sides facing |
| Flat-felled seam | strong seam with two lines of stitching showing on the right side that is produced by folding one raw edge under the other and stitching it flat or slip-stitching it on the wrong side |
| French seam | strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges |
| Seam Finishes | Any method that stitches or trims seam allowances to prevent fraying, improve strength and apparel appearance |
| Pinked and stitched seam finish | seam allowances are trimmed with pinking shears. Pinking shears give an attractive edge; however, they only minimize raveling, especially if the garment is laundered. To truly prevent raveling, add a row of straight stitching just shy of the pinked edge. |
| Turned-and-stitched seam finish | quick finish that will keep your raw edge tucked under and out of sight. Fold the edge of your seam allowance under 1/8 inch, press, and stitch close to the folded edge. This finish is best for light to medium weight wovens, course weaves, and tweeds |
| Machine Zig-zagged seam finish | using a zigzag function on your straight stitch machine and is stitched over the edge of the raw edges to prevent fraying |
| Overlock (Serged) seam finish | kind of stitch that sews over edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut edges of cloth as they are fed through (such machines being called sergers), though some are made without cutters |
| Trimming | refers to reducing a seam allowance to prevent bulk. Seam allowances of enclosed seams should be trimmed to an even width, usually ¼ inch. The corner of a seam should be trimmed diagonally to remove extra thickness when the corner is turned |
| Grading | process of turning a standard seam allowance into layered tiers of fabric. The result is less bulk, which means a smoother finish from the right side. Grading a seam removes bulk and allows the seam to sit a little flatter on your finished garment |
| Clipping | where you cut slits equal distance apart and equal depths into the seam allowance |
| Notching | similar to clipping, but you cut out tiny wedge-shaped pieces of fabric from seam allowances. Notching's used on convex curves and exterior corners because seam allowance is larger than space it'll be turned into |
| Fabric Easing | method of taking the excess length of one fabric and trying to evenly distribute that excess throughout the length of the shorter piece as you're pinning them together |
| Gathering | bundling up portion of fabric to fit on smaller piece of fabric, creating fullness by longer machine stitch allowing threads to be manually pulled, consequently gathering fabric |
| Single-Pointed Dart | most common dart mostly used on skirts at waist and trousers and blouses at bust. The single dart is narrow at one end and wide at the other. With the triangular shape of an angle with single dart point and two dart lines |
| Double-Pointed Dart | also called fish-eyed dart and body dart. Mostly this darts is used for jackets and dresses that fit at waist. Double pointed dart is sharp and narrow at both the ends |
| Applied Casing | enclosure, fabric tunnel, typically around waistline, made to enclose a drawstring or elastic created by folding over by externally connecting an application. The end product resembles an elastic band or a tie |
| Self-Casing | enclosure, fabric tunnel, typically around waistline, made to enclose a drawstring or elastic created by folding over by externally connecting an application. The end product resembles an elastic band or a tie |
| Interfacing | fabric attached between the facing and the outside of a garment (as in a collar) for stiffening or reinforcing |
| Fusible Interfacing | by far the easiest interfacing to use, especially for beginners. It has an adhesive on one side which bonds permanently with the fabric when applied with an iron, due to the combination of heat and steam |
| Non-fusible Interfacing | interfacings that do not have adhesive and must be sewn by hand or machine |
| Turned and Stitched Hem | garment finishing method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded and sewn to prevent unravelling of the fabric and to adjust the length of the piece in garments, such as at the end of the sleeve or the bottom of the garment |
| Machine Blind Hem | method of folding and stitching, you can create a machine stitched hem that is nearly invisible from the outside |
| Rolled Hem | a finishing technique used in sewing to create a clean, narrow hem on fabric edges, often employed on lightweight or delicate materials. |
| Fused Hem | uses fusible hem tape or webbing to bond and keep the hem allowance edge folded towards the wrong side of the garment. Falls in category of no-sew finishes. |
| Slip-stitched Hem | continuous stitch, especially for a hem, in which the needle is put through folded part of hem, picking up few threads of fabric inside, to be invisible on outside |
| Hooks & Eye | fastening for clothes consisting of a small hook hooked onto a small metal or thread loop |
| Hook & Bar | popular choice for closure on tailored trousers, skirts and other garments. Alternative to a button closure, particularly where a clean, minimal look is required |
| Snap | pair of interlocking discs, made out of a metal or plastic, commonly used in place of traditional buttons to fasten clothing and for similar purposes |
| Snap Tape | efficient and error free way of closing a garment or textile application |
| Eyelets | small round hole in leather or cloth for threading a lace, string, or rope through |
| Nylon Tape | used for reinforcing lines and points of weaknesses, particularly straps and top lines. |
| Buttons | small knob or disk secured to an article (as of clothing) and used as a fastener by passing it through a buttonhole or loop |
| Zipper | device consisting of two flexible strips of metal or plastic with interlocking projections closed or opened by pulling a slide along them, used to fasten garments, bags, and other items |
| Hook & Loop Tape/Velcro | a two component fastening system comprised of the hook: the rough, scratchy side, and the loop: the soft, fuzzy side. |
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