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3.03 Vocab
Vocab apparel and textile
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Stitch length | the length of each stitch sewn by a sewing machine. Changing the stitch length adjusts the feed dogs, which controls how much fabric is pulled through with each stitch. |
| Backstitching | stitch backward to the edge of the fabric to secure the ends of a row of stitching. Continue sewing the seam to the other end and backstitch ½ inch from the end. |
| Standard stitching | the basic straight stitch used by every sewing machine for normal seams and joining two pieces of fabric together. This basic straight stitch length may change to suit different weights and types of fabric but is commonly 10 to 12 stitches per inch |
| Understitching | a line of standard stitches that are sewn close to the edge of a facing, 1/8 inch from the seam line on the right side of the fabric, through facings & seam allowances, to keep it from rolling toward the outside. It keeps the facing or lining firmly on th |
| Basting | a technique of temporarily holding layers of fabrics together, by using longer stitches – 6-8 stitches per inch, until the fabric layers are permanently stitched. Basting is sometimes also called tacking. |
| Standard seam stitching | 5/8 inch plain seam line sewn to join two pieces of fabric together |
| Reinforcement stitching | a short stitch – 15- 20 stitches per inch, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other, used to add strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as an armhole, crotch and corners. |
| Topstitching | make a row of continuous stitches on the top or right side of a garment or other article as a decorative feature. |
| Stay-stitching | a line of stitching sewn around an edge (such as an armhole) of a garment being made in order to prevent the cloth from stretching. |
| Edge stitching | a row of stitching on the very edge of a garment, normally ⅛” or less from the edge. It provides a crisp edge for facings, collars, pockets or any situation where you want a tight, professional finish along a seamed edge. |
| Zigzag stitching | a geometric side to side stitch used for seam finishing, button hole creation, decorative sewing and sewing stretch fabric. |
| Stitch-in-the-ditch | a technique which involves sewing down the channel of an existing seam (the "ditch") to secure pieces of a garment in place without the stitches being seen on the outside. By sewing down the seam line in matching thread to your fabric, the stitches are hi |
| Specialty stitches | most machines have a variety of these specialty stitches that add a decorative aspect to sewn garments or items. |
| Seam | Row or line of stitching resulting in holding two layers of fabric together. |
| Plain seam | the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item. A plain seam is defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of fabric together with the wrong sides facing. |
| Flat-felled seam | a strong seam with two lines of stitching showing on the right side that is produced by folding one raw edge under the other and stitching it flat or slip-stitching it on the wrong side |
| French seam | a strong seam stitched on both sides of the fabric to enclose all raw edges. |
| Seam Finishes | Any method that stitches or trims seam allowances to prevent fraying, improve strength and apparel appearance. |
| Pinked and stitched seam finish | the seam allowances are trimmed with pinking shears. Pinking shears give an attractive edge; however, they only minimize raveling, especially if the garment is laundered. To truly prevent raveling, add a row of straight stitching just shy of the pinked ed |
| Turned-and-stitched seam finish | a quick finish that will keep your raw edge tucked under and out of sight. Fold the edge of your seam allowance under 1/8 inch, press, and stitch close to the folded edge. This finish is best for light to medium weight wovens, course weaves, and tweeds |
| Machine Zig-zagged seam finish | using a zigzag function on your straight stitch machine and is stitched over the edge of the raw edges to prevent fraying. |
| Overlock (Serged) seam finish | a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines being called sergers in North America), thoug |
| Trimming | refers to reducing a seam allowance to prevent bulk. Seam allowances of enclosed seams should be trimmed to an even width, usually ¼ inch. The corner of a seam should be trimmed diagonally to remove extra thickness when the corner is turned. |
| Grading | the process of turning a standard seam allowance into layered tiers of fabric. The result is less bulk, which means a smoother finish from the right side. Grading a seam removes bulk and allows the seam to sit a little flatter on your finished garment. |
| Clipping | cutting slits equal distance apart and equal depths into the seam allowance. This is done on all seams with an inside or concave curve to prevent bunching and promote a smooth finish. Clipping allows the concave curve to stretch out and adjust when it is |
| Notching | similar to clipping, but instead of taking a single snip out of the fabric, you cut out tiny wedge-shaped pieces of fabric from the seam allowances. Notching is used on convex curves and exterior corners because the seam allowance is larger than the space |
| Fabric Easing | a method of taking the excess length of one fabric and trying to evenly distribute that excess throughout the length of the shorter piece as you're pinning them together. The end result should be a perfectly smooth seam with no puckering and the edges of |
| Gathering | the act of bundling up a portion of fabric to fit onto a smaller, pre-measured length of fabric, thus creating fullness. Gathering is normally achieved by using a longer machine stitch that allows for the threads to be manually pulled which consequently g |
| Single-Pointed Dart | most common dart mostly used on skirts at waist and trousers and blouses at bust. The single dart is narrow at one end and wide at the other. With the triangular shape of an angle with single dart point and two dart lines. |
| Double-Pointed Dart | also called fish-eyed dart and body dart. Mostly this darts is used for jackets and dresses that fit at waist. Double pointed dart is sharp and narrow at both the ends. |
| Applied Casing | an enclosure, fabric tunnel, typically around the waistline, made to enclose a drawstring or elastic created by folding over by externally connecting an application. The end product resembles an elastic band or a tie. |
| Self-Casing | an enclosure, fabric tunnel, typically around the waistline, made to enclose a drawstring or elastic created by folding over the edge of the cloth. |
| Interfacing | an additional layer applied to the inside of garments or other sewing projects, in certain areas only, to add firmness, shape, structure, and support to areas such as collars, cuffs, waistbands and pockets; and to stabilize areas such as shoulder seams or |
| Fusible Interfacing | by far the easiest interfacing to use, especially for beginners. It has an adhesive on one side which bonds permanently with the fabric when applied with an iron, due to the combination of heat and steam. |
| Non-fusible Interfacing | interfacings that do not have adhesive and must be sewn by hand or machine. |
| Turned and Stitched Hem | a garment finishing method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded and sewn to prevent unravelling of the fabric and to adjust the length of the piece in garments, such as at the end of the sleeve or the bottom of the garment. |
| Machine Blind Hem | method of folding and stitching, you can create a machine stitched hem that is nearly invisible from the outside. |
| Rolled Hem | a very narrow hem and is the definition of elegant sewing. It's perfect for your lightweight fabrics, such as chiffon or silk, as the rolled hem maintains that light and airy look that you'll want to use for sophisticated projects. It's also a perfect h |
| Fused Hem | uses fusible hem tape or webbing to bond and keep the hem allowance edge folded towards the wrong side of the garment. This method falls in the category of no-sew finishes. |
| Slip-stitched Hem | a continuous stitch, especially for a hem, in which the needle is put through the folded part of the hem, picking up a few threads of the fabric on the inside, so as to be invisible on the outside |
| Hooks & Eye | a fastening for clothes consisting of a small hook hooked onto a small metal or thread loop. |
| Hook & Bar | a popular choice for the closure on tailored trousers, skirts and other garments. It is an alternative to a button closure, particularly where a clean, minimal look is required. |
| Snap | a pair of interlocking discs, made out of a metal or plastic, commonly used in place of traditional buttons to fasten clothing and for similar purposes. |
| Snap Tape | snap fasteners on twill. If you need three snaps or five snaps, you can easily cut the tape to fit the size you need. You can easily sew snap tape onto duvets, garments, bags, onesies, dresses, bodysuits, and jackets. It's the perfect alternative to velcr |
| Eyelets | a small round hole in leather or cloth for threading a lace, string, or rope through. |
| Nylon Tape | Used for reinforcing lines and points of weaknesses, particularly straps and top lines. |
| Buttons | a small knob or disk secured to an article (as of clothing) and used as a fastener by passing it through a buttonhole or loop |
| Zipper | a device consisting of two flexible strips of metal or plastic with interlocking projections closed or opened by pulling a slide along them, used to fasten garments, bags, and other items. |
| Hook & Loop Tape/Velcro | a two-component fastening system comprised of the hook: the rough, scratchy side, and the loop: the soft, fuzzy side. When pressed together, the little hooks on the hook side engage with all of the little loops on the fuzzy side and create a super strong |
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