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Gyre
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Upwelling
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Term
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Gyre | Circular moving currents that occur within a single ocean basin. |
| Upwelling | Is the rising of cold water from deeper water to replace warmer surface water. |
| Downwelling | is the sinking of warm surface water to lower portions of the water column. |
| Thermohaline circulation | is a term used to describe deep-ocean circulation, due to seawater density differences caused by temperature and salinity. |
| Wave crest | Highest part of the wave above the average water line. |
| Wave trough | the lowest part of the wave above the average water line. |
| Wave height | Is the vertical distance between wave crest and trough. |
| Wavelength | Is the horizontal distance between successive crests of waves. |
| Wave period | This is the time it takes once wavelength to pass fixed length. |
| Wave base | The maximum depth at which a water wave’s passage causes significant water motion. |
| Surf | This is a collective term for breakers. |
| Swash | Water moving along in waves or with a rushing movement. |
| Backwash | The water flows back down to the beach toward the surf zone. |
| Beach | An accumulation of sediment along the landward edge of an ocean, marginal sea, or lake. |
| Wave refraction | The slowing and bending of waves in shallow water. |
| Beach drift | The transport of sediment in a zigzag pattern along a beach caused by the uprush of water from obliquely breaking waves. |
| Longshore current | Near shore current that flows parallel to the shore. |
| Hard stabilization | An artificial structure built to protect a coast or to prevent the movement of sand along a beach. |
| Emergent coasts | A coast where land was formerly below sea level has been exposed either because of crustal uplift or a drop of sea level, or both |
| Submergent coasts | A coast with a form that is largely a result of the partial drowning of a former land surface either because of a rise of sea level, or subsidence |
| Tides | Periodic change in the elevation of the ocean surface. |
| Diurnal tidal pattern | A tidal pattern exhibiting one high tide and one low tide during a tidal day; a daily tide. |
| Semidiurnal tidal pattern | A tidal pattern exhibiting two high tides and two low tides per tidal day, with small inequalities between successive highs and successive lows; a semi-daily tide. |
| Mixed tidal pattern | A tidal pattern exhibiting two high tides and two low tides per tidal day, with a large inequality in high water heights, and in low water heights. |
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