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Term

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Term
Definition
Gyre   Circular moving currents that occur within a single ocean basin.  
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Upwelling   Is the rising of cold water from deeper water to replace warmer surface water.  
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Downwelling   is the sinking of warm surface water to lower portions of the water column.  
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Thermohaline circulation   is a term used to describe deep-ocean circulation, due to seawater density differences caused by temperature and salinity.  
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Wave crest   Highest part of the wave above the average water line.  
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Wave trough   the lowest part of the wave above the average water line.  
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Wave height   Is the vertical distance between wave crest and trough.  
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Wavelength   Is the horizontal distance between successive crests of waves.  
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Wave period   This is the time it takes once wavelength to pass fixed length.  
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Wave base   The maximum depth at which a water wave’s passage causes significant water motion.  
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Surf   This is a collective term for breakers.  
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Swash   Water moving along in waves or with a rushing movement.  
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Backwash   The water flows back down to the beach toward the surf zone.  
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Beach   An accumulation of sediment along the landward edge of an ocean, marginal sea, or lake.  
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Wave refraction   The slowing and bending of waves in shallow water.  
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Beach drift   The transport of sediment in a zigzag pattern along a beach caused by the uprush of water from obliquely breaking waves.  
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Longshore current   Near shore current that flows parallel to the shore.  
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Hard stabilization   An artificial structure built to protect a coast or to prevent the movement of sand along a beach.  
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Emergent coasts   A coast where land was formerly below sea level has been exposed either because of crustal uplift or a drop of sea level, or both  
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Submergent coasts   A coast with a form that is largely a result of the partial drowning of a former land surface either because of a rise of sea level, or subsidence  
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Tides   Periodic change in the elevation of the ocean surface.  
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Diurnal tidal pattern   A tidal pattern exhibiting one high tide and one low tide during a tidal day; a daily tide.  
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Semidiurnal tidal pattern   A tidal pattern exhibiting two high tides and two low tides per tidal day, with small inequalities between successive highs and successive lows; a semi-daily tide.  
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Mixed tidal pattern   A tidal pattern exhibiting two high tides and two low tides per tidal day, with a large inequality in high water heights, and in low water heights.  
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