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WatA 2.2
Wave Action
Term | Definition |
---|---|
wave | 1. A disturbance that transfers energy from place to place. 2. The movement of energy through a body of water. |
wavelength | The distance between two corresponding parts of a wave, such as the distance between two crests. |
frequency | The number of complete waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time. |
wave height | The vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough. |
tsunami | A giant wave usually caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor. |
longshore drift | The movement of water and sediment down a beach caused by waves coming in to shore at an angle. |
rip current | A strong, narrow current that flows briefly from the shore back toward the ocean through a narrow opening. |
groin | A wall made of rocks or concrete that is built outward from a beach to reduce erosion. |